Sunday, January 08, 2012

Seoul - Day 2

Highlight of the entire Seoul trip: tour of the Demilitarized Zone and Joint Security Area!

When I first expressed my wish to tour the DMZ, I was still in doubt whether I would be able to do it eventually. Eventually we found out that it was a pretty simple task of signing up for the tour and providing a copy of our passport.

Early in the morning before the Sun rose, we were already waiting for a vehicle to pick us up. Different vehicles went to different areas to pick everyone up, then gathered all of us at a hotel where we boarded a bigger bus.

First stop: Imjingak.


Personally I think there's nothing really special about this place; it feels like it has been built for tourists. The most significant thing thing at the place was the Bridge of Freedom that used to be a link between two Koreas but now is closed.


A military observation post looms overhead behind the bridge.


Wishes planted by people around the world hoping for reunification and world peace one day.


Was surprised to see the train, but had no idea where it was from, where it was going, what it was carrying, and why it was doing there in the first place.


Highly fortified fences can be seen everywhere.


While the bus journey itself to Imjingak was quiet, Imjingak itself was swarmed with busloads of tourists.


View from the top of an observatory. Binoculars were available at a small cost, but I did not use it.

Second stop: Third Infiltration Tunnel.


Even after the DMZ was established, North Korea was still planning to attack South Korea, and one such plan was to dig tunnels that could move large numbers of North Korean soldiers across the border and into Seoul in hours. Four such tunnels have been found to date, and South Korea believed up to 17 tunnels had been dug.


Again, a horde of tourists of different nationalities.

We were ushered into a small theatre to watch a short film explaining the Korean War, and followed by the actual tour of the tunnel. The tunnel was steep and rather low, so we had to bend ourselves most of the time. We were all panting by the time we came back up again haha. Photography inside the tunnel was not permitted unfortunately.

Third stop: Dora Observatory.


It is the part of South Korea that is closest to the North, situated at the top of Dorasan. Everywhere, we can see the desire of South Korea to reunify with the North.


A yellow line on the ground marked the limit beyond which we were not allowed to use our cameras. Right in the middle, a South Korean soldier kept a close watch on us to ensure we did not flout the rule.

Fourth stop: Dorasan Train Station.


It was meant to be part of a railroad system that would eventually link up both Koreas. Unfortunately it is not going to happen anytime soon.


Tourists taking photos with South Korean Military Policemen on duty.


More Military Policemen standing guard inside the station.


"Not the last station from the South. But the first station toward the North."


The proposed railroad system that crosses the border.


Just a long list of names. My guess is all the people that had contributed to the building of this station.

After that, our tour group broke up into two. Those who had only signed up for the morning tour were sent back, while the rest of us had lunch, and then its the fifth stop: the Joint Security Area.


The use of cameras were even more restricted for the afternoon tour. We were instructed not to take photos at all during the bus journey. After reaching Camp Bonifas, the main United Nations command post in charge of the South Korean DMZ, we were ushered into the JSA Visitor Centre for a briefing.

After the briefing on the Dos and Do-Nots, we were brought up to two buses driven by South Korean UN military drivers, and we were driven to the JSA, with the ban of cameras in effect, of course.


After many other instructions like moving in two lines, standing within the borders of two South Korean UN soldiers etc, we finally reached the JSA!

Even then, we could only take photos in this particular direction.


After that, we were led into the Conference Room where we were given explanations by the tour guide, all under the watchful eyes of the South Korean UN soldiers.


The microphones were monitored by both sides 24/7, so we had to watch what we said too.


The concrete slab that marked the Military Demarcation Line, the line that separates the two Koreas.


I was in North Korea! For a brief minute or two.


The door behind opens to North Korea, so there were strict instructions not to go near that particular South Korean UN soldier. Notice the distance the ang moh had to stand from him.


It was at most five minutes before we were chased out of the Conference Room and back onto the bus. We were given one drive through where we could take photos, and that was it.


Memorial for two US soldiers who died in the Axe Murder Incident. Personally I thought it was dumb, but well it just meant how tense relations were back then.


"Bridge of No Return". Used by both Koreas for exchanging Prisoners-of-War in the past.

And that is the end of it all. We were driven back to Camp Bonifas, where there was a gift shop for us to buy souvenirs.


Tourists getting all excited when they spotted a US soldier.


We were dropped off at the City Hall, where there was a ice skating rink right in the middle!


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